Brass Chimes by Debbie B. from Illinois salvaged this
commercial set of 14-brass chimes that had been improperly mounted and without
support plate or striker. She corrected the mounting location to be the 22.4%
location and crafted a new mounting and striker.
Copper chime sets by Carl Kinder The tubes are 1-1/4" type-M copper, that have been brushed with a
sanding disk from different angles, heat treated with a torch, and then clear
coated. Tubes are tuned B, C, D, E, F, and G The set with the blue ball & beads
used an experimental low temp plastic resin powder coated clear coat. The wind
sails are made from plasma cut copper sheet that's also been heat treated and
clear coated. The knocker is made from a hobby builder's clock face with
decorative curtain hanger rod ends. All tubes are suspended by 50# test fishing
line that's been strung with decorative beads.
Clearance sale inspires wind chimes!
Edmund Haremski, from Buffalo NY was in Lowe's Home Improvement store one day
when1-1/4” and 1-1/2” copper pipe was on clearance for 75% off. Purchasing an
adequate supply and applying his woodworking skills, Ed use the information on
this website to fabricate his chime-set. The bell shaped top support and
decorative striker was made using his wood lathe. The striker is wood, but the
point at which it strikes is made from Corian. The original wind catcher was too
heavy, so he replaced it with this stamped metal flower he found at Walmart for
about $5. Ed used the half-wrap method to support the chime tube. He already has
request from family members for additional sets.
Chimes by Bill Carpenter
I’ve been using aluminum tubing, mill finish, anodized, and bright
anodized. All work well. I purchased them through Amazon, a local
supplier, and ACE Hardware.
Supports I’ve made from hardwood, mahogany and black walnut. I used scrap
pieces from my woodworking hobby. The striker has chamfered edges to present a
narrow striking surface.
I've used a braided micro cord, 1.18mm from Atwood Rope Mfg and purchased
On the first wind chime I made, I used copper wire to make inverted “v”s with
a single cord for hanging. On the subsequent ones, I used the traditional double
cord pass through hanging method.
I’ve experimented with wind catchers, including a wooden orthogonal sail, and
found a large 8” Reuleaux polygon to be very effective. I also made a real sail
from sailcloth and a dowel frame which I’m still testing. I find that having a
wind catcher heavy enough to set up a resonance with the striker as you suggest
to be very effective.
At first I thought the “real” sail was a good idea. Then after I finished it,
I got a little disillusioned. Now I’m back to thinking it’s a good idea. So I
may try a more ambitious one with a small boat hull for a little more weight,
and maybe a mainsail and a jib. The hard work is cutting out and sewing the
sail, and then the rigging. But I’ve got a little experience now and it should
go better with the next one.
I also got a scrap piece of sheet aluminum, 1/16” thick, from which I made a
5 1/2” square wind-catcher. It works very well and it has the right amount of
weight for resonance.
Some items from my experience I’d like to pass on:
• I cut the tubing on my table saw using a cut off sled and a 7" aluminum
• To cut burrs off the inside of holes drilled in 1” aluminum tubes, I use a 6”
half round crosscut file.
• To cut out the wood circles for supports and strikers, I use a home made band
saw jig I got from the internet. Then I use a similar jig to sand the pieces on
a disk sander.
• I make my drilling patterns by drawing a full size layout on 1/4” grid
sketching paper, and then copying it to a stiff paper cover stock.
• To determine the length of cord needed for hanging (I use holes drilled
through the support), I use a spreadsheet to add up the hang lengths, thru the
tube lengths, thru the support lengths, space between the chimes and support
distances, and the distances across the top of the support to get an overall
length. Then I add a few inches for good measure.
• After cutting the cord to length, I use Duco Cement on the ends to create a
stiff, un-frayed end which is easy to push through holes. I can get it through a
1/8” hole through 1” tubing on the first try most of the time.
• Once I get the chimes at the right height, I push a small brass nail through
the hole beside the cord to lock it in place. Cord ends are secured with knots,
either just a common overhand knot, or a figure 8 knot.
In addition to making the 4 chimes, I’ve repaired and renovated 4 sets,
one of which needed three aluminum rod chimes that had been lost. I’ve also
renovated an old “chimealong” with 12 chrome plated 7/8” steel chimes, 3 of
which were missing. I quickly found getting a small quantity of the right steel
tube chrome plated was a lost cause, so I found some stainless steel which I
used. I calculated the lengths from the excel tables on the website, and they
turned out pretty good. A picture is attached. The new chimes don’t have the
blue hang point marking tapes on them.
High School Music Class in New Jersey makes wind chimes. Each student
made the striker, sail and support
plate by hand and cut/tuned/mounted the chimes on their own! The teacher provides students with a basic outline or structure for the
project and the students took it from there, which is why each project came
The set features a copper roof and a copper wind sail.
chime set. One chime set inside another made from aluminum tubing by Gary
Made for a very special mother-in-law.
One set is 16mm OD x 14mm ID tuned to C4 for the longer chime.
The other set is 10mm OD x 8mm ID tuned to C5. The top support structure was 3D
modeled and printed in PLA+ plastic. Each set has its own striker. A
bronze coat was added to provide a metallic finish. I sanded away the
metallic finish from the translucent plastic by the icons to make it look like a
cutout and let the sunlight pass through. I used the hang points as a guide to
determine the size and layout. See the video
Tank Chime by Michael Smith
The orthogonal sail was kept
close to the ground because it can swing widely and could be a danger to people.
The clapper is made from an industrial plastic material.
BJ, using aluminum and copper, built her first set of chime sets for kids using a school
bus, fire truck, 1910 Model A Ford and Uncle Sam for the 4th of July.
Aluminum electrical conduit by Dan Sodam
2 inch aluminum conduit makes
the silver colored pipe set using C4 Canterbury (6 pipes) while the 2 inch black
aluminum set is C3 for the C9 chord (5 pipes). A bamboo cutting board was used
to make the keeper for both sets.
Six square tubes chime set by Richard Maier from NH
While our calculator is only valid for round tubing,
Richard used the ratio calculator to select lengths for this chime set. The hang
point remains at the 22.4% location and allows the tubing to resonate to its
The top cap was from a hole cut into a walnut cutting
board for our dogs food dish. The top edge was rounded with a 3/4" router bit.
The clapper/hammer is a piece of left over pressure treated decking cut into a
hexagon and rounded over on top and bottom with the 3/4" router bit, and stained
with walnut stain. The sail is a piece of pine sanded with a flute on one side
and stained with the walnut stain again. All of the wood has about 5 coats of
Helmsman Spar Urethane. My daughter did the writing and the art work.
I tried jewelers chain first but it was not strong enough to carry the weight
of the tubes and switched to a slightly heavier chain from Lowes. With an old
umbrella I cut the pins for the tubing hangars and was able to pull the pins up
with a screwdriver to bend then so they would center the chain in the tubing. I
didn't find a good way to finish them off on the outside of the tubing so they
were just bent over and cut off, then filed a little.
I built two sets of chimes utilizing "L" type copper tubing,
the larger having eight 1" OD pipes tuned to the St. Michael's chimes (two
octaves lower), with the smaller utilizing 3/4" OD tubing and tuned to a d-minor
pentatonic scale. The base and striker on the larger set were made with 5/4
purpleheart hardwood (Brazilian), and the smaller set were made with African
sapele hardwood. Both strikers are star-shaped, and the bases are simple
octagon/pentagon shapes. Both sets utilize your orthogonal sail, but I used
sheet copper for the sail in being consistent with the copper theme.
Additionally, the pipes are center hung as i drilled and inserted 1/8" copper
pins and soldered (sweated) the joints. Removal of the excess was a snap with a
fine file and sandpaper, and the joints are nearly impossible to find.
See short video here
Two Tube aluminum chime set by Mak Kern
I made these Dream Catcher Meditation Chimes using your chart-
for aluminum and painted the chimes to look Brass [ the rings are actual
Brass.] The "sail" is marble stone and acts as a weight that everything spins
around, so by spinning the ring you activate the chime. The fishing line that
hangs everything, coils in one direction and then unwinds so that even a little
spin activates the chime for awhile.
Tube Copper Chime Set by Gareth Thomas, England
From a discarded section of type M copper
tubing Gareth fashioned the set from mostly recycled material. Selecting notes E
flat, G, B flat, D and F the chimes are bottom aligned and supported with a thin
cord from an end cap. Take note that Gareth first used thin braided S/S wire
(1.5mm) to support the chime from the end cap and it had a lethal effect on
A polished abalone shell makes the perfect wind
sail. Listeners enjoy a sustain time of 30-45 seconds.
Hear their sound
sets of 2017 Christmas gifts made from 3/4" copper pipe, cedar supports and
strikers with hammered copper sails, 40 lb mono support line below support
plate, 80 lb Dacron above, by Jonathan Fenton
copper chime support by Nick Leith
Recycled 3 1/2 inch schedule 40 steel tubing featuring the natural weathered
finish by Dan Coyne, Lodi, CA
Tuned to the major pentatonic scale, the sculptured chime set weights in at 210
pounds with the longest tube (E4) about 50 inches. The 9 inch striker is made from a recycled red colored nylon cutting board
while the chime set is displayed showing the lush native California backdrop.
You can listen
HERE .8 Meg mp3
(note the exceptional sustain time)
tuned bell chimes in Europe exhibited at Mozirski Gaj Botanical Park in Mozirje,
By: Anton Petek,
Length 19 feet 4 inches, 7 inch, (180 mm) OD aluminum,
wall thickness 5 mm, tuned to: C - G - D - E - A.
Chimes by Paul and Alice Johnson
What to do with a random collection of Type L
copper water pipes ranging in diameter from 5/8", 7/8", 1 1/8" and 1
5/8", was a question B
ob asked. A coordinated collection of five notes, C1, D1,
B2, E4 and C3 makes this very attractive chime set stand out in a scenic
Stainless steel tubes with a 38mm diameter and a wall
thickness of 1.2mm.
By Riho from Estonia.
Most of the internal support pins are welded in place and ground
to a smooth surface. Originally, Riho began with a wood clapper but later
switched to a soft plastic for better longevity. No difference in sound was
noticed when switching from wood to plastic. Alignment began with a bottom
arrangement but switched to top aligned because the high winds caused the chimes
to bang into each other.
specifically for this meditation center. The large diameter was selected to
provide a sufficient surface to adequately radiate the fundamental C3 note of
65.4 Hz, and to allow for a large range of overtones.
Chime Magnesium: In the plumbing business, Wes discovered that magnesium
water heater anode rods produce a nice sound. Aluminum is very close to
magnesium so tuning was done using the aluminum selection in the calculator. The
diameter is typically .9 or .75 inch. Wes used a keeper-striker to allow
the ten 10 chimes to maintain position and prevent tangling.
in a variety of sizes by: Richard Jupp, near Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Hand-crafted to order in the Dandenong Ranges, Richard has developed a
Mountain Song Wind
Chimes, with a little help from this website. Manufacturing wind chimes is
not simply to 'turn a buck,' but because he has a one-eyed passion for them. He
thoroughly enjoys the delight expressed by folks as they listen to their gentle
resonant tones! With a strong musical interest and a background in physics,
professional careers in engineering and sales, and solid workshop skills,
Richard encourages a custom design specific to the customer. In addition there
are a number of 'off-the-peg' designs.
Uniquely supported copper and
aluminum chimes by Thomas Warman, North Texas His wife's favorite, the
DoublChime, is 1 inch copper about four feet long flowing across two octaves,
while Tom's favorite sounds fantastic, it was inspired by eastern culture and is
1 inch aluminum about 16 inches long. The MoonChime is also 1 inch aluminum
about four feet long and remains as Tom's second most favorite. In a effort to
gain a better understand about the science of chiming the first few chime sets
were standard designs from copper, EMT-steel and aluminum tubes sized from 1/2"
to 1" in diameter. Considerable effort was placed on achieving the desired sound
with help from his wife's piano skills. A family favorite weighting 40 pounds
and hanging in the front yard, 'Mac Daddy' is made from 1 1/2" EMT about 5'
long. Tom also made good use of the
orthogonal wind sail.
3 inch Steel tubing by Art Gustafson: Designed
specifically for the
Museum, the colors green and yellow are in keeping with the museum. On
occasion, chimes can become quite annoying when the wind is gusting strong. Art
has designed a unique method for quieting chimes in just those situations. The
rotating wood disk rest on top of the aluminum keeper-striker and can rotate to
three predetermined positions, full volume, half volume and 90% quiet. Thank you
Art for adding yet another useful design element to the art of chiming. Art
plans on making a similar set for the Oklahoma Animal Shelter.
See Art's video HERE
I wanted to thank you for the information you have provided on your website
for making Wind Chimes. When my husband Bill and I were stationed and lived in
Beaufort, SC (1992-2000), we would travel to Florida to see my mother and
father. In one of our many adventures together at a flea market, I had bought a
set of homemade large chimes from a very nice lady. Her and her family had a
home base operation. My family and I also made a visit to her house and watched
her make the additional set we bought for my mother on that day. In her yard she
had chickens that laid green eggs. How cool is that!!! That was the beginning of
my dream of what I wanted to do with my next life….and maybe I could even sell
them as well.
So fast forward to now.
A year ago I was sitting in a cubicle and not very happy with the journey…So
after many discussion with my husband, I decided to resign and start a new
chapter…maybe I could make chimes with the help of my husband (of course after
all he will have to operate the equipment.) After much research on line I found
your website to be the most helpful and useful. I am at the developing and
growing stage. We have created a workshop in our basement next to the washing
machine and dryer (and my husband is still operating the equipment…the chop saw
intimidates me…I will get the courage.) I am currently creating a website, it
will take me awhile. Also, I am operating in the red for now. That will change.
Our business is named
Chimes by B & S and we can be contacted
is a journey not a destination.”
5 - Octave Chime Mobile by Tom Zarzaca, Georgia,
72 Meg, MP4
An amazing five octave chime mobile from five,
pentatonic scale chimes sets, six chimes each. See the video and observe the free casual motion
of the mobile. The tubing is aluminum with 1/8” walls, but the
arch has a 1/4" wall. The chime set diameters are 7/8”, 1”, 1-1/4”,
1-1/2”, and 2”…with the shortest tube about 9” and the longest 84.”
inch EMT by Vic from Vancouver – Listen Here, 2 Meg, MP3
(Note the beautiful bell like sound)
Made as a present for a friend living on the seashore, I painted the pipes
silver, the striker green and the top plate color is blue. The wind catcher I
acquired from a dollar store and serves the purpose. I reduced the size of the
striker diameter by half inch but increased the height. This was done by
inserting a dowel inside the bottom of a tin can bottom. Reducing the diameter
but increasing the height keeps the striker weight the same. The chime sound is
slightly clearer in pitch, but sill good. I also provided a wooden striker with
the chimes as an option, which can be replaced any time. The wooden striker
gives a slightly muffled sound.
Steel chime set, 2 mm wall thickness steel by:
Michael Beazley, UK
A chime set for our sensory garden at our local
primary school came out perfectly first time with the help of your
designs and pre-calculated tables. The latter saved me hours of trial
and error, and was inexpensive to make. The tubes were tuned to a chord
of F sharp minor 7th - a nice dreamy sound for a sensory garden I think.
They are located in a windy spot fairly close to local homes, so the
striker is a light wooden disc wrapped in faux leather for a soft tone.
With six of the older children, we talked about the way tubes create sound,
identified the notes on a keyboard, and they checked the 22.4% measurements:
then assembled the chimes from the "kit" of cut, drilled and painted tubes that
I made. They then explained this back to the rest of the class, and we all went
outside to hang the chimes from a tree. All good ways to apply their math and
EMT by Valerie: 1 1/2" EMT (Steel) cut for the pentatonic scale at C4
Pictured is the American themed chimes that I made based on your
information (just in time for the 4th of July). The longest chime is
just over 40 inches tall, and with the wind sail and top support; it is
around 5 foot tall. I stenciled the stars on the top support in
white paint, and used a special paint for the tubes as they are
galvanized, and most paints will not adhere well to galvanized metal in
the long term. I love the star strikers (and it matched my theme), so I
made it with the star instead of a regular circle striker. I used a
turnbuckle on the striker as it makes adjustments very easy, and it
provides some weight to the striker. The turnbuckles work beautifully. I
also made one of your special wind sails, but instead of aluminum, I
used thin plexi glass, and cut it with a jigsaw. I works amazing!!!! I
have made five sets of chimes now, and I replaced all of the original
windsails with your specially designed ones because they work so much
The Chimer by Bill Stoyer: Bill has repurposed this old Emerson
piano into his Chimer.
Copper tubing chimes covers two octaves (+), 26 notes. Note the particularly
excellent work that allows the tube to be stabilized after its struck, yet
maintains the sustain note until key release, and the effective back lighting.
Brendel has created a
Arduino controlled set of windless chimes suspended horizontally from
the two node points. From 5/16 inch aluminum tubing, the 16 note player was
tuned in the Key of C with the lowest chime at a frequency of 2,637 Hz, which is
Eight 3½ inch mirror polished 3/16 Stainless steel
chimes feature the concealed striker mounting system. In general. the concealed
striker is not an effective method for striking a chime with enough energy to be
heard at a distance. So in this application, considerable work with extensive
experimentation, finally resulted in a robust strike that produces a charming
sound throughout the garden.
Mike Mellelieu, Tauranga, NewZealand, has sculptured an unusual
feature into his pond design using a water driven striker for the chime
set. A copper fountain sculpture, with falling water, activates rotating copper
tubes to create a chiming effect similar to wind chimes. The sculpture stands
about 1.8 metres tall, and has taken a monthe to design and build, being a long
process of trial and (mostly) error. Measurements and counter weights turned out
to be critical. As far as I am aware this is a unique concept for chimes in a
Watch the daytime video
the nighttime video HERE
3/4 inch EMT(bottom aligned) by Mark using 1/8 inch Lexan sail
(36 sq. in) and a wood striker
I couldn't help but wonder what an octave up or down would sound like so I
made two other sets. I made one an octave higher - 5 tube with A4,C5,D5,E5,G5
and it is a very nice sounding chime. I have this one alone in a little tree in
the front yard. It is a beautiful sounding set. I may try a little harder
striker. Right now it is just a 3/4" thick pine disc.
Then I made a bigger set for an octave lower - 6 tube again.
The small set has a very neat airy bell sound - not very loud but nice in the
front yard. The middle set has a full deeper tone. I used a harder wood for the
striker and I think it is a little harsh, but my wife likes the sounds.
Both of the larger sets are under a back yard pergola. Even though they are
cut to the same notes, and play well together, each set sounds so different from
It does not have the smoothness and sustain of an older set of purchased
aluminum tube chimes that we have. (1 ½ " tubes with
1/8" walls) I think the longest tube on the aluminum set is about 20 something
The lower octave set has a nice deep tone. Not quite the sustain again of the
thick aluminum tubes. It definitely has the sound of church bells.
(I like the sound of a baseball striker, but it would take a lot of energy to
get a good sound - I have a pine disc striker again on the larger set.)
To clean up the inside of the the drilled holes on the last set of tubes, I
carefully used a small piece of wire coat hanger wire with a small sharp bend in
it and my electric drill. I got the little bent end of wire inside the tube,
making sure it would make proper contact, and spun it while pulling out on the
drill. In doing so, it made this hard wire piece smooth the inner lip of the
holes. I know it worked better that the previous attempts at sanding on the
others because the string fed thru much better and smoother.
1 inch 304 SS x .049” wall by Tom Mitchell, New Jersey
clapper is a Delaware River rock drilled with a diamond bit and the top piece is
Other chimes sets by Tom included custom wind sails, cut
using a jewelers saw, from .09” thick aluminum.
I used 9 tubes, 3 of each size,
15mm, 22mm, & 28mm, longest of which is 27in and shortest 10.5in, so a huge
spectrum of possible tones. They are all ‘old copper’, which means they are
thick-walled, but not necessarily perfectly uniform, made 50 or more years ago.
Overall hanging length from top of stainless loop to bottom of sail: 42in.
Striker 3 1/4in, with a striking gap of 1/4in gives striking diameter of 3
3/4in. Tubes of three different diameters are set on three separate radii: the
narrower ones closer to centre, with outer tubes just inside support disk. The
inside contact point of each tube is exactly on the striking diameter, & tubes
are arranged on this so that the contact points are equidistant from each other
on that circle. This gives all an equal chance of being struck.
Pictured with the chime set is Chris's son, 5 ½ feet
tall, and helps to demonstrate the overall size.
My chime supplies are from a local metal recycler
making them very affordable. They get some of the craziest stuff and not
just aluminum cans either. The support disk is a 1/4 inch aluminum plate cut
to form a 24 inch circle.
made a jig using a 2 x 2 piece of pine and a couple of nails to work as a
larger than life compass (pictured right) for scratching a circle in the
plate. A jig saw with a metal cutting blade worked well to cut the circle.
On the top support plate I drilled four evenly spaced holes, 90 degrees from
center, around the edge of the disk to support the top plate using chain
attached to the support rope. Five evenly spaced holes near the
circumference were used to support the tubes. After I made this chime set, I
did see some precut wooden disk at my local hardware store, that would have
support line for a chime is .032 braided stainless steel cable. It runs
about 27 cents a foot at Home Depot. To solve the problem of supporting the
chime on its center, I used the same stainless cable to form an upside down
Y connected at the 22.4% location. Two 8” cables were used in each chime
with which loops were created at each end. Ferrules (pictured right) were
used to keep the loop in the cable. One end was fastened to the inside of
the chime with a stainless 1/4” bolt and the other was attached to the cable
from the other side of the chime, and held together by the cable used to
hang the chime from the support disk. I am trying to hang all my larger
chimes with one line in the center of the chime. By doing it this way, it is
always in the center of the chime and not sliding to one side or the other.
Using a stout tree branch, 15 feet from the ground, I
threaded rope thru a pulley to hoist and support the chime set.
A couple weeks after completing this project I learned
about the possibility of corrosion between the SS bolt and the aluminum
tubing, caused by the dissimilar metals issue. Next time, a plastic washer
where the two metals meet would solve that problem.
Chimecco 600-pipe wind chime:
This truss supported 600-pipe wind chime is made from 2 inch (50mm) diameter
aluminum with lengths from 4 ¾ inch (120mm)
to 12+ feet (3750mm). Notes cover the entire span of the music scale, and
while not all fundamental notes are audible, there are an ample amount of
overtones to produce a bell-like sound.
I just finished building a 5-chime set according to
information at http://leehite.org/Chimes.htm and they produce fabulous bell like
notes on the C3 scale. I used the Syntrillium software to select the desired
pentatonic scale -- Major Pentatonic (Asia).
Bill Moyer used eight, one-inch copper pipes with a
pentatonic scale tuning beginning at A3, for this artistic arrangement including
small copper bells from a two tier support ring. On top is a solar light fitted
to the bottom ring of the frame work.
Bryon Bren discovers
schedule 40 aluminum pipes. "I had been sitting on the idea of making some
big chimes for a few years. I initially bought some scrap gas cylinders to make
some bells. They kind of worked but tuning them turned out to be problematic.
Anyways, I had a bunch of schedule 40 pipe lying around and decided to give it a
shot. I had no idea pipe could sound so great."
Mr. Tomáš Jarošek from the Czech Republic has tuned a
single chime tube for three separate frequencies, the fundamental, the first
overtone and the air column resonance, often using his tuning of symbolism.
Quite an amazing task.
I do the tunings from my point of view, cognition,
experience and feelings to resonate with its symbolic meaning...
From Mr. Jarošek:
"I was studying a music therapy and I started to be interested in tuning, music
theory, music physics and math. I needed "something" to test theories which I
was working with. Chimes looked like a good start.
One day I was going by junkyard and I saw an old rusty
lamp. That one which has a light on long tubes. I said that's it! I was able to
test Pythagorean tuning which I was just discovering, and this was the result:
Yeah, you can see some mistakes at first sight, but never mind, this is my
Some weeks, maybe months passed and I took this chime to
one meeting in nature. A lady saw it and asked if is it possible to order
something like that. I said well it is possible :) And this is how started mine
custom handmade chimes...In these process I research a lot in making and tuning
chimes but (not just) in the start your website helped me a lot! So thank you
for publicizing them ! Since then I started to making self resonating chimes
with tuned inside air column, I love these one :) and the last "masterpiece" is
chime with 3 tunings in one tube! Classical tuning of primary tone of metal,
inside air column tuned to this primary frequency but also THIRD tuning! and
that is tuned first overtone! wow that was something to do it... my head went
crazy about that... you tune one frequency and distune the other two... oooh...
But the result is quite awesome for me.
Here are some 2014 Christmas presents I made for our best
friends and grandchildren. I started out with 2" type "L" copper pipe and made a
pattern for making a one piece bell, and then folding it all after tempering it
to get it soft. Then I hand hammered it to get a nice ring and get an old
fashion type look to it. Made some copper rivets to hold the sides together and
then soldered sides. The strikers are made from pipe ferrules filled with
solder. The ones shown are about 3-1/2" tall by 2-1/2" sides at their widest
point. The one with the bigger striker has a better sound (IMO).
2 inch OD Aluminum with 1/4" wall thickness, tuned to the
C-9 Chord beginning at C4.
I got 5. My mom wants a wind chime that my late father was
going to make for her but he got to sick then passed. So I will make one for
her. I want it to sound wonderful for her. I paid for that app so I can tune it
like you showed on your site, Instuner.
THANKS so much for your help...
A wonderful setting for a tank chime made from a CO2
compressed gas cylinder with the bottom cut off. The tank measures 8” ID and 20”
tall with a ¼” wall thickness. The striker is from a 4 ¾ inch steel disc, 1/16
inch thick and uses a 12 inch axle for stability.
Tides was to be a series of dynamic public art concerts with
large-scale sculptural kites, tuned wind chimes and performances by experimental
choral singers. Formally dressed in black, choral performers were to improvise
with varying bell note melodies driven by the kite lines they would fly. - See
A lightweight support frame and a lightweight keeper/striker
designed to contain the chime tubes in chaotic winds accompanied the ultra
lightweight chime tubes (1 inch OD, .032” wall aluminum tubing), all of which
remained under two pounds.
2" aluminum, July, 2013
(Set number 2, see set number 1 down the page)
This set is a little larger than the last ones. The tubes
are 2" x .065 aluminum with the upper support a combination of 3", 2" & 1-1/2"
copper pipe. Kind of a chandelier design for the support. Overall the whole
thing measures about 5' tall. The striker is again Alaskan Birch with copper
sheet used for the sail. The sail was made a little heavier than normal so it is
not chiming constantly since it is located in a spot that picks up all our
winds. The sound turned out quite beautiful thanks to your chart. The only thing
that was not salvage was the chain used to hang the striker/sail assembly. The
tubes were drilled and copper wire inserted for the hang points.
Tried something new on the top support. Applied Oatey
soldering Flux and let it set for a few days in the rain to give it the patina.
On the sail I used Miracle grow African Violet liquid to achieve that patina.
The Miracle grow patina looks better to me than the flux as it is not so dark
and does not leave the film that the flux leaves.
I wanted to say thank you for all the information I got from
I used it to make my first wind chime and it came out fantastic.
Roger Deweese, 4" tank top bell, 5"
The paint is a metallic red with about 3 coats of clear over
it. There is a 1/4" black striping tape put on prior to putting on the clear
finish. The "clanger" is made out of 1/8" aluminum cut into a star pattern (it
seemed to need a sharp sound to work well).
Jack Nash, 6 pipes of 2" aluminum rigid
conduit, using the pentatonic scale
Jon, 2 inch aluminum chimes
The tubes are 2" aluminum. The top support structure is based
around a 3" copper type L that was drilled out to accept 1/2" copper axle tubes
that support 1-1/2" copper for each tube support. The striker is made out of
3/4" Alaskan birch (4" diam) and the sail is made from some scrap sheet copper I
had laying around. The support lines are made from two strands of phone wire.
Everything used was scrap/salvaged materials except for the small piece of chain
used to hang the chimes.
Formerly Newton’s Flying Magnets, now Sonntag Creations, Roger Sonntag uses
magnets with a chaos engine to create windless chimes in a variety of styles. In
addition, you can buy just the electronic controls and design your own version.
Jay Do and Hung Do, Houston, TX,
Type L 1 inch copper pipes
I write to you today to send you our warmest gratitude, all the way from
Houston, Texas. You have put forth so much effort, not just in your website and
extensive research alone, but also by personally assisting those who require
additional assistance. With your help, my father and I were able to craft a wind
chime by hand, filled with sentimental value. Far more valuable than something
you could buy at the store.
Firstly, we picked the material we were to use. We decided
upon Type L 1” copper pipes. The smallest chime was 14 inches in length, and we
added one and a half inches to every chime after that, for eight chimes,
resulting in the longest chime being 26 inches. While this did not create any
particular chord, it created an inharmonious, yet tranquil sound. Next, we moved
on to the support disc. The support disc was crafted out of stainless steel, as
to not rust over time. It has several layers, similar to a merry go round. Next
was the striker. The striker was also made out of stainless steel, to withstand
the test of time. Last but not least was the wind catcher. The wind catcher was
also crafted out of stainless steel.
To make our wind chime more unique, we decided the wind
catcher had to stand out. What better way to do that than to show what the chime
creates? I printed out an image of an eighth note and a sixteenth note and glued
one on either side. My father than used an engraver to scratch away at the note,
onto the metal, resulting in a gorgeous, while at the same time unique finishing
touch on the chime.
This project was a wonderful father/son project. Surely, if
we wanted a wind chime we could have gone to the nearest gardening store and got
one for so much less effort and money, but being able to experience firsthand,
all the effort that goes into designing and crafting a unique wind chime by
hand, well, that’s priceless. We are so fortunate to live in a time and age
where people like yourself are able to share their wealth of knowledge with the
rest of the world, and likewise, people like my father and myself are able to
obtain that knowledge, and make use of it with a few clicks of a mouse. Thank
you again for all your hard work. This wind chime will be a treasured keepsake
of the family for many years to come.
by Lutz Reiter, Marco Dondana and Arnim Jepsen from the Chalmers
Institute of Technology in Göteborg, Sweden
The Chimecloud is an evocative,
responsive sound and visual installation aiming to make users actively
take part in the creation of soundscapes using their body and movements
in interaction with the space surrounding them. It takes its idea from
nature, where the wind is the main element creating natural soundscapes.
The Chimecloud is using this as a metaphor, making the peoples presence
and movement matter and bringing the space to live. 36 actuators (servo
motors) triggers 216 chimes from user movements.
6 inch x .128 Inch wall, aluminum, total weight
about 35 Kg, 77 Lb
by Craig Hewison from the UK.
Overall, I'm extremely happy with the chimes, they
sure are a talking point with friends and family. There's also a
footpath leading to a nature reserve that runs behind our garden: I've
caught a few people taking photos of them..! The sense of achievement I
got from making these chimes was worth the money alone, plus I've got a
fantastic piece of functional garden art that should give me pleasure
for years to come. I can't thank you enough for your help and guidance
Thanks to the use of his father's workshop
(pictured below) Michael Labbee crafted several chime sets as gifts for
family and friends. He customized the wind sail for a friend with a cat,
a Mets fan, a Yankees fan and a 3" x 3" x 3" bird house. Note the two
methods of supporting the chime for applying the finish. A coat hanger
through the support holes, and a nail through a board with a section of
Styrofoam in chime. Everything was finished with Varathane semi-gloss
2.5 inch x .062 inch wall aluminum tubing by Neal
I recently built a wind chime for my mom as a Christmas present. She always
wanted a very large, loud wind chime, but could never find one. I decided to
take on the challenge of building her one from scratch, and I wanted to let you
know that I could not have done it without your website. Thank you very much for
posting the plethora of information.
I am a machinist, so I had easy access to materials and
tools for this project. I used 2.5" round .062" wall aluminum tubing for the
chimes. I had them polished at a plating shop. I made the support out of a piece
of oak, as well as the striker. I turned the outside diameters of the support
and striker on a lathe to make them perfectly round, and radiused the outside of
the striker and stained both pieces. The support has a hole in the center for
the mounting chain to go through, and I attached a hook so the striker and
catcher could be removed easily if there was any unwanted chiming in the middle
of the night.
The catcher is a piece of clear plastic. I engraved a
quote on the catcher, it reads, "The pessimist complains about the wind; the
optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails" I used wire
through the drilled holes in the tubing to hang the tubes, and put hooks on the
chains so the tubes can be taken down easily.
The chime sounds great, and resonates very well. Last
Christmas Eve I hung the chime on my parents front porch, and put just the
catcher in a bag to give to my mom. When she opened it, she was confused until I
told her to go outside. Seeing the chime and knowing that I made it for her made
her cry, happy crying of course. I just wanted to take the time to show my
appreciation and share this with you. Thanks again! Neal
1 inch galvanized EMT by Jeff Zabriskie Commissioned
by my wife to make chimes for her mother, I selected the C4 size 1 inch
galvanized EMT. Because I never wanted to have to redo ANY portion of the chimes
due to weathering or wear, I used 3/16” Stainless Steel for the top-plate and
dinger. The support cables are 3/16” Stainless for the primary and 1/16”
galvanized for the chime supports. The internal attachment points utilize 12
gauge copper wire with the center bent up with the stick method. Once we get
into spring, I might look into adding the mouse-ears to the top plate to get a
little rotation if they need it, although we’ll see. The wind- sail is
thin-gauge galvanized sheet metal modified to act like a CD, but I bent the
edges to keep my support line from bending awkwardly and used rubber grommets so
the sail wouldn’t simply spin. Jeff has a video for
those that may wish to see it.
Aluminum & Copper wind chimes by Dan Shaw, Virginia
Swarovski crystals are used for the strikers while the hand carved Eagles are
from sinker cypress. The Eagles are finished using
Tung oil, white wood stain and mixed acrylic
1 1/4 inch Rustic Cast Iron water pipe chimes by
I made my striker and sail with small sections of the same wrought iron pipe
(1.68" galvanized water pipe) and welded on hooks. I am keeping the finish
natural (a bit rusty) but did coat it with WD40. The top leg support is made
from a triangle of half inch steel with stubs that the legs slip on to. The top
is an aluminum fry pan and it just sits on the to. I drilled holes into it to
hold the chimes and striker. I chose the metal striker because after I had one
strung up I really liked the clear tonal quality. I had some weed eater string
(.060") that I used for chime support. They kind of sound like church bells. I
didn't do any tuning except to measure the lengths. This was a fun project. I
made it for my wife since she wanted a set of chimes.
A Chromatic Chime Set, By: Dan Larson
Why? Just because I could. I have friends who ring bells in church, and I am
a closet piano player. When Pablo Casals played a Bach cello sonata VERY fast,
someone asked him: why so fast? He answered: Because I can. My son named my
creation C Machine, because it plays a C scale.
Read the entire account of this activity by Dan, very
I chose 1 inch copper tubing and a chromatic scale C4 thru C5
(C4 was actually a test piece that I used and it's the only 3/4" pipe) and hung
the pipes on a hardwood frame. Using the excel sheet as a guide I cut all pipe
1/16th long (as suggested) for fine tuning later. Using a hand file and a tuning
device I tuned each pipe.
The most difficult task was hanging the pipe without
I chose a solid brass rod which I cut to length, and bought a drill bit that was
essentially 'one sheet of paper' smaller than the diameter of the rod. Hammering
the pins (cut from the rod) into the hole allowed a super snug fit; the copper
gave way to the brass, fitting very tight. No buzz! That was the most tedious
part, getting the hole to be drilled fairly straight and hammering each pin
thru. I also built a sustain pedal to allow the chimes to ring a desired length.
This wooden pedal bar pictured at the bottom is spring loaded. All in all the
project was a weeks work and I am super satisfied with the result. Sounds good!
Chimes by Stanley,
Park City, Utah,YouTube video here
Copper chimes using a cabinet knob as the striker and an aluminum electrical box
cover for the wind sail.
Hip Chimes by John, Troy,
Tubular not, but none the less, they are chimes.Yes, these really are
Chimes made from old orthopedic and dental implants that I have in my collection
from 32 years, e.g., hip stems, knee prostheses, acetabular cup prostheses,
dental blade-type implants, etc. Two of the hip stems are Ti (one is actually
just a scrap piece from machining a hip stem) and the other 2 stems are Co-Cr-Mo
alloy. When they are made out of Vitallium (a very hard Co-Cr-Mo alloy, usually
cast, but sometimes wrought), the ringing is terrific. (Ti-6Al-4V alloy
sometimes also rings pretty well.) (See the
(Hip Chime Video Here) WMV
The middle clapper thing is an old-style Co-Cr-Mo acetabular cup replacement,
which was meant to screw into the pelvis. The small rectangular plate above it
is a little Ti plate, which will hopefully catch the wind a bit.
Medical Chimes by John, Troy, NY
Made from orthopedic (and dental) implants. This one has 2 knee joint pieces in
it -- the portions that would attach to the end of one's femur. One is made from
Vitallium and the other from Ti-6Al-4V alloy. Also one of the other hanging
things is an implant-shaped rasp (used to prepare the femoral site for a hip
stem). The 4th item is a porous-coated acetabular cup (with a little inverted
nylon bolt passively running thru it, as a hanger to let it ring decently.
(There's a small dental implant threaded into the shaft of the nylon bolt so I
can hang the whole thing.) The striker is a large chunk of left-over titanium
alloy, which was left from machining another part. The 2 flat wind-catching
plates are pure titanium and Ti-6Al-4V alloy, left over from some cell culture
Chimes by Chuck,
from Columbus, Ohio, Nice use of chains.
I made six set of chimes based on the information on your site and gave them
away as Christmas presents. They sound great. Although, I'm not too sure about
using the chain to support the ringer and wind sail. It's probably too
heavy. See his
One bit of information you didn't explain is the need to
create notes within the same chord in a given key. That way, any two or more
notes that chime together will sound great together. My music teacher friend
helped me select an F major 9th chord and a G major 9th chord.
1 1/2 inch EMT Chimes by
David from Alaska
The set is contains 20 chimes from 1-1/2" EMT (electrical metallic tubing) with
a range from C4 to G above C5. The chimes are mounted in a frame of Jacobi wood
(sometimes called Brazilian Cherry). The frame construction is a combination of
mortise/tenon and screwed connections.
I also found a given type of pipe has a limited range of
notes that will ring well. I put a copper wire through the tube and through the
last link of the chain. Then I used a long stick that just fit inside the bottom
of the pipe with a point cut on the end in the middle. I pressed the stick
against the copper wire to put a bend in the middle so the chain will center
itself. It is much prettier, more heavy duty, and more permanent than string.
Finding the brass chain was the most difficult part. I used Trex decking to make
the top support and ringer so they will never decay.
Commissioned Chime Set by Kenny Schneider
plays Bach's, Joy of Man's Desiring, when struck.
About me: I am a retired electronics engineer with a passion for
investigating technical issues, occasionally surrounded with mystery and
often bridging several fields of technology.
Leland Hite (Lee) K8CLI
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